Free Crochet Candle Amigurumi Pattern Holiday Project

A goofy big nose a little flame on top and a sturdy recycled cardboard core give this free crochet candle amigurumi pattern its playful holiday charm. It stands tall on a fireplace mantel or a festive table and its silly face makes it feel more like a tiny character than a decoration.

Only basic stitches are used so newer crocheters can take this on without worry. A cardboard tube from your recycling bin holds the shape, which means no expensive inserts and a candle that stays upright. It also makes a lovely handmade gift for anyone setting up a Christmas corner.

 

DIY Crochet Christmas Nose Candles Amigurumi Pattern

Project Overview

  • Skill level: Beginner
  • Time: About 2 to 3 hours. Plan roughly 45 minutes for the base and body, 20 to 30 minutes for the flame, and the rest for the nose, accents and assembly.
  • Construction: A round base, a straight tube-shaped body, a separate flame, a big round nose, and small holly and bow accents sewn on at the end

Materials

  • Candle body: Cream, white or ivory worsted weight yarn (acrylic or cotton blend)
  • Flame: A small amount of yellow or orange
  • Nose: A small amount of pink, peach or red
  • Wick and face: A scrap of black or dark brown yarn or embroidery floss
  • Holiday accents: Red and green scraps for a bow and holly leaves
  • Hook: One size smaller than your yarn label suggests, usually 3.5 mm to 4 mm for worsted. Tight stitches matter here, because straight walls show gaps more than round shapes do.
  • Structure: A recycled cardboard tube, such as a paper towel or toilet paper roll, plus a small cardboard or plastic canvas circle for the base
  • Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill, pulled apart into small, even tufts
  • Notions: Stitch marker, yarn needle, scissors, pins

Abbreviations

  • MR – magic ring
  • sc – single crochet
  • inc – increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
  • dec – invisible decrease
  • BLO – back loop only
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • rnd – round

Before You Start

Move your stitch marker up at the start of every single round. A tall tube has no increases or decreases to show you where a round begins, and once ten identical rounds are stacked up, it is very hard to tell them apart.

One more tip: the BLO round right after the base is where many beginners lose count, because it is easy to slip back into working both loops out of habit. Slow down on that round.

The exact stitch counts for each piece are shown in the video tutorial linked below, so keep it open while you work.

Step-by-Step Candle Pattern

Step 1: Start the Base

Make a magic ring and work single crochet into it. Increase each round, spreading the increases evenly, until the circle is wide enough to cover the end of your cardboard tube. Follow the video for the stitch count used in this candle.

Lay the base flat on the table before moving on. It should sit flat, with no curling edges and no cupped center. If it does either, check your increases and tension now, because any unevenness here carries up into the walls.

Start The Base

Step 2: Crochet the Body

Work one round in BLO to create a neat ridge between the base and the body. Then continue in regular single crochet with the same number of stitches every round, with no increases or decreases.

Keep going until the body is as tall as your cardboard tube. Crochet a little tighter than usual and keep the same tightness the whole way up. A hand that loosens partway through a long stretch of plain rounds is the main reason a candle body bulges in the middle.

Body cylinder

Step 3: Insert the Tube and Close the Top

Place the cardboard or plastic canvas circle inside against the base. Slide the cardboard tube in on top of it, and push a little stuffing into the tube so the top of the candle stays smooth. Then close the top as shown in the video, keeping it flat so the flame has a level spot to sit on.

Check the candle on the table. It should stand straight and look the same width from bottom to top.

Step 4: Crochet the Flame

The flame is a separate small piece. Start with a magic ring and increase for a round or two, then work a few even rounds to give it some height.

Flame

Next, decrease gradually so the flame narrows into a soft point. Stuff it lightly as you go, and leave a long tail for sewing. It should come out clearly smaller than the candle top.

Flame Rounds

Step 5: Add the Wick and Attach the Flame

For the wick, sew a few short straight stitches with dark yarn or floss in the center of the candle top. Place the flame over them, so a bit of the dark wick shows at its base.

Pin the flame in the center and look at it from the front, the side and from above. A flame that looks centered from the front can still lean when viewed from another angle. Then sew all the way around its base. A flame tacked at only one or two points will twist and drift over time.

Step 6: The Famous Big Nose

The nose is what gives this candle its personality. Make a small ball: start with a magic ring, increase for a few rounds, work even for a couple more, then decrease and stuff it firmly before closing. Follow the video for the size used here.

Pin the nose on the front of the body, a little above the middle. Sew it on all the way around. Then embroider two small eyes above it with dark yarn, and add a little smile underneath if you like.

The Famous Big Nose

Step 7: Holiday Accents

Make two or three holly leaves in green, using a short chain with single crochet worked back along it. For the bow, crochet a small red strip, fold it, and wrap yarn around the middle to cinch it.

Add these last. Once the body, flame and nose are in place, you can see exactly where the accents look best instead of guessing.

Holiday Accents

Watch the Video Tutorial

Finishing

Weave all yarn tails into the inside of the body instead of trimming them at the surface. On a smooth tube, any tail that isn’t tucked away shows right away. If your yarn can handle it, a light steam helps the rounds sit neatly against each other.

Common Mistakes

  • Uneven walls: Tension loosened partway up. Stop every few rounds and compare with the first rounds.
  • A wobbly base: The base circle was skipped, or the base itself is not flat.
  • A lopsided flame: It was tacked at one point instead of sewn all the way around.
  • A crooked nose: It was sewn on without pinning first. Pin it and check from a distance before sewing.

Troubleshooting

  • The candle leans: The tube or base circle is off-center. Straighten it inside the body, and even out any stuffing at the top.
  • You can see gaps between stitches: The hook is too big for the yarn. Go down a size or tighten your tension.
  • The top edge is uneven: A stitch was missed in the last rounds. Recount before closing the top.
  • The flame flops over: It needs a little more stuffing and a seam all the way around its base.

Color Variations

  • Classic holiday: Ivory body, warm yellow-orange flame, red and green accents
  • Winter white: Pale blue-white body with a soft gold flame for a frosty look
  • Rustic mantel: Oatmeal or tan body with a deep amber flame and brown accents

Make a Candle Trio for Your Mantel

One silly candle is cute, but three side by side look like a little family. It’s an easy change, because only the height of the body changes. The base and flame stay the same size.

  • Pick three tubes: A long paper towel tube cut to three different heights works perfectly.
  • Match the body to each tube: Add or remove plain body rounds until the crochet reaches the top of each one.
  • Give each one a different face: Try a wink, a big grin or sleepy eyes so each candle has its own character.
  • Change the accents: Holly on one, a bow on another, and a tiny scarf on the third.
  • Arrange them tallest to shortest: Or put the tallest in the middle for a balanced centerpiece.

To round out your holiday display, add the crochet Christmas snowman and the layered crochet Christmas tree next to your candles. For more fun holiday makes, the Christmas ice creams and the Grinch amigurumi are great picks.

Safety and Care

This is a decoration shaped like a candle, not a real one, so keep it away from open flames, fireplaces and heaters. If it will be near small children, use embroidered eyes rather than beads or buttons, and choose a smooth base circle with no sharp edges.

Because there is cardboard inside, don’t wash it in water. Spot clean with a damp cloth and a little mild soap, then let it air dry fully before putting it back on display.

FAQs

Why does my candle body curve instead of staying straight?

Usually because your tension changed between rounds. Crochet a little tighter than usual and try to keep the same tightness all the way up.

Can I skip the cardboard tube?

Yes. Stuff the body firmly in small tufts, building up from the base and pressing it flat as you go. Keep the base circle, though, because it helps the candle stand without the tube.

Do I need a separate wick piece?

No. A few dark straight stitches at the base of the flame give the same look without extra bulk.

How do I keep the flame from leaning?

Sew all the way around its base instead of tacking it at one point, and check it from several angles before you finish.

Is this safe for a child’s room?

With embroidered features and kept away from heat, it makes a soft holiday decoration. Since it has cardboard inside, it is better as a shelf piece than a toy, and very young children should be supervised around it.

A Glow You Never Have to Blow Out

No wax no matches and no drips on the tablecloth. Just a cheerful little candle with a nose big enough to make everyone smile. Set it out with your first holiday decorations and it will quietly become part of the tradition each year.

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